AO Medical Policy on Short-Dated/Expired Products

At AO Medical, we carry some short-expiry/expired products—and yes, we purchase them on purpose. The reason is simple: it allows us to reduce costs, create BOGO promotions, and even offer free gifts so clients can try professional-grade products in their treatment rooms. But not every short-dated product makes the cut. We have strict internal standards, and after thorough fact-checking with manufacturers and, when needed, independent labs, we carefully select only the products that remain safe, stable, and fully effective. Transparency and education are at the core of how we operate, and we want to share our policy with you in detail.

We will never provide or promote a product that does not deliver results. Our reputation and your trust depend on it. Every decision is made carefully—and if results would be inferior to a fresh batch, we do not offer it. In fact, each 2 lbs of shipping costs us about $12. We would never import and distribute products, paying that much in freight, unless we were confident they perform as intended. On top of that, we even go out of our way to ship everything by air freight from Korea—even though boat freight is much cheaper, and commonly used—because boat shipments can sit outside for months, exposed to conditions that compromise product integrity. This is why we only choose air freight, despite the high cost.

There are many factors that determine how well a product is preserved beyond just the printed expiration date. For example, even a completely fresh product can become unsafe if it has been sitting outside under direct sunlight for a week— while a carefully stored, short-dated product can remain perfectly stable and effective. At AO Medical, we take this responsibility seriously and know exactly what steps are required to keep products at their best.  

We also never rely on jar packaging for formulas with high concentrations of actives or water content — every jar opening exposes the product to air, bacteria, and oxidation. Instead, we prioritize packaging that protects product integrity: airless pumps, sealed tubes or bottles, opaque materials, and UV-protective coatings. Paired with cool, dry storage, this ensures that even short-dated or expired items can remain safe, stable, and effective when unopened.

Many of you probably remember that in the very beginning we carried quite a few products in jar packaging. We went through the complicated and expensive process of transitioning our U.S. market products out of jars and into safer formats like tubes, airless jars, and airless pumps. This was not a one-time change — it has been an ongoing process of review and improvement.

Every time a product is reproduced, we carefully review whether the packaging can be upgraded. If there is a new, better option available on the market, we always choose it, even if it costs us more. That’s why you may notice small upgrades from time to time. It’s not random — it’s because during our annual renewal cycles, if we discover packaging that offers better stability, safety, or freshness, we make the switch. This commitment ensures that our clients are always receiving products in the most protective and reliable packaging available, and it reflects our philosophy that quality and results will always come before cutting costs.

We are very, very careful with the entire process, well aware of how our products must be handled from the factory to your treatment room.

Although the selection of short-dated and expired products makes up only a small part of our catalog, we currently have fewer than ten items offered as expired or short-dated gifts and BOGO promotions. While this selection is limited, our goal is to expand carefully and intentionally. We’re already seeing strong demand, with clients asking if we have more of the BOGO items they tried previously or requesting similar options in other product lines. This tells us the program is working — it provides value without compromising results. Looking ahead, we may even add a dedicated menu section for these products, making it easier for you to find and take advantage of these offers without searching.

Having said this, let’s go over the standards we use when selecting short-dated products. Every product goes through a strict internal checklist before it’s ever offered for sale or as a free gift.

Expiration Dates and U.S. Regulations

Unlike Korea, where cosmetics are required to display a manufacturer or expiration date, the U.S. FDA does not require cosmetic products to carry an expiration date (with the exception of certain over-the-counter drug products like sunscreens, acne treatments, or benzoyl peroxide). Cosmetics are not regulated the same way as food — they are expected to remain safe and effective when properly formulated and stored.

 

So why do many U.S. skincare brands still display “EXP” dates?

• Consumer trust – U.S. clients are accustomed to seeing clear expiration dates, and it builds confidence in product safety.

• Global alignment – Many international manufacturers already include expiry or PAO (Period After Opening) symbols to meet EU/Korean standards, and these labels are carried over into the U.S. market.

 

The Difference: FDA vs. KFDA on Expiration

• FDA (U.S.): The U.S. FDA generally regulates cosmetics under the principle of “post-market surveillance.” That means companies are responsible for ensuring safety, but products do not require pre-approval, and expiration dating is not mandatory (except for OTC drugs).

• KFDA (MFDS, Korea): The Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety follows a “pre-market approval and control” model. Cosmetic products must undergo review before being sold, and manufacture date or expiration date labeling is mandatory.

This reflects Korea’s strict emphasis on consumer protection and traceability from the very beginning of the supply chain. Regulations set a uniform standard.

This system does not change depending on the formulation, even if some products may remain stable far beyond that period! (IMPORTANT: Professional-grade products are often formulated to remain stable for longer use.)

It is simply a basic regulatory standard. For distributors like us, this means it becomes our responsibility to carefully evaluate how long these products can be offered, ensuring safety and performance are never compromised.

Just like with our blog on fragrance — where we explained how it is scientifically safe, yet we recognize it can be difficult to change people’s perspectives — we know this topic can also be challenging for you to educate your retail clients. That’s completely fine. This is why we always provide two clear options:

• Fresh, new-batch products, and

• Short-expiry or expired products, carefully selected and verified, are mainly intended for professional use at the back bar rather than retail sizes, discounted prices, or as gifts. (We also have fresh new gifts.) 

The choice is entirely yours. Our role is to educate, remain transparent, and give professionals the flexibility to decide what works best for their practice and clients.

Products Best Not Used After Several Years (“Expiration”) — Never Offered by AO Medical past expiration. 

• Sunscreens and SPF products – UV filters lose stability, resulting in inadequate sun protection.

• Retinoids (Retinol, Retinal, Retinyl Esters) – Highly unstable; degrade quickly, reducing effectiveness and potentially causing irritation.

• Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) – oxidizes quickly; discolored solutions suggest loss of potency and potential irritation when L-ascorbic acid is the primary active ingredient. If Vitamin C is only a minor component, the product might still be safe and effective after its expiration date, provided the overall formulation and packaging remain stable—check with the manufacturer. 

• Acid-based exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs) – Instability and pH changes increase risk of irritation.

• Creams and emulsions – Contain water and fats that separate and allow microbial growth once preservatives weaken.

• Eye creams – The delicate eye area is at higher risk of irritation and infection; expired formulas are not safe.

• Products in jar packaging – Repeated air and bacterial exposure accelerate spoilage after expiry.

• Natural or preservative-light products – Especially vulnerable to microbial contamination once preservatives degrade.

• OTC drug actives (e.g., Benzoyl Peroxide) – By law, these must be used before expiry for safety and effectiveness.

 

Factors That Accelerate Deterioration

• Exposure to light, especially in transparent packaging

• Heat and humidity (e.g., bathroom storage)

• Weak or insufficient preservative systems

• High oil or fat content prone to rancidity

• Repeated air exposure in wide-mouthed jars

 

AO Medical’s Clinical Position

At AO Medical, we exclude categories known to be unsafe past expiry (such as creams, sunscreens, and retinoids) and only consider formats and ingredients confirmed stable through manufacturer data and our own cross-check process. We would never distribute a product that delivers less than full efficacy or creates risk for clients. Our guidelines are designed to protect both professionals and end users, ensuring that safety and results are never compromised. 

These guidelines are proprietary to AO Medical and are the result of our extensive clinical experience, manufacturer collaboration, and independent research. 

• Safe & Effective – Every batch is validated by the manufacturer and, when appropriate, confirmed with third-party testing.
• Stable Formats – Items in formats such as airless pumps, sealed tubes, powder formulations, sterilized vials, and ampoules are designed to remain stable well beyond the printed expiration when unopened.
• 12-Month Usability After Opening – Most professional formulas remain stable for 6 to 12 months after being opened, as indicated by their PAO symbol, even if the printed date has passed.
• Lower-Cost Access – Short-dated promotions give clients the chance to try premium, professional-grade products at a fraction of the cost.

 

• These are not leftover or unwanted items. They are purchased intentionally in limited quantities for promotional purposes. 

• It is impossible for us to be holding thousands of expired products in inventory. Every short-dated purchase is a controlled, purposeful buy to support limited offers.

• We make careful, product-by-product decisions. Included: Essences, serums, ampoules, powder formulas, 5ml vials, and sterilized vials — all of which remain stable when unopened and properly stored. We do not purchase formulations past expiration that contain highly sensitive actives (like Vitamin C or retinoids) which lose efficacy after their expiration date.

• Every accepted batch goes through months of internal review, manufacturer validation, and cross-checks. If any risk of reduced efficacy is identified, we do not bring it in.

• Short-dated promotions are always optional. Fresh-batch inventory is always available.

It’s also very important to understand that the date you open a product is often more significant than the printed expiration date. Once a product is opened, it is exposed to air, light, and bacteria — and this begins the countdown of the PAO (Period After Opening). The PAO symbol, usually shown as an open jar icon with “6M,” “12M,” or “24M,” indicates how long the product remains safe and effective after opening. For most professional-grade formulas, this is 6–12 months, regardless of the printed expiration date. This is why unopened, well-stored products can remain stable even beyond their labeled expiry, while opened products should always be used within the recommended PAO window.

Client Example Cases:

• One of our estheticians shared that she goes through an entire 150 ml Dr. Esthé Ampoule Solution in just a week, applying it generously — almost drenching the client’s skin during treatments. Her philosophy is that using ample product delivers better hydration, absorption, and overall results than limiting application to small, concentrated amounts. Thanks to the value created by our short-dated promotions, she can provide this level of care without worrying about cost — and her clients absolutely love the outcome.

• Another client adds these free products into her regular facials at no added cost thanks to BOGO pricing. The results are excellent, and her profitability increases.

• We’ve sold over 3,000 short-dated Vitamin C 150 ml solutions, and almost every client who first tried them as free gifts have since purchased the full-price, fresh batch. In this way, short-dated promotions also serve as a safe, effective sampling opportunity.

We love educating our clients and being fully transparent about how we handle things at AO Medical. Many of you have been with us for 10–15 years and already know our standards, but we wanted to make this post especially for new clients who may not yet understand why we sometimes offer short-dated options. Once again, nobody has warehouses full of expired products sitting around in these quantities. We purchase them intentionally, with a clear purpose — to create opportunities for you to try them as free gifts, test them in your treatment rooms, and make the right decisions for your business.

If you prefer not to use short-dated products, that’s absolutely fine — we respect every professional’s choice. But please know these are not “leftovers” or random stock; they are carefully sourced and very difficult to bring in. Our goal is to pass along value without ever compromising results.

We hope this blog gives you clarity, and as always, if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out. Thank you so much for trusting us!